Canoe Journal to finish the Mackenzie River in the Northwest Territories 400 Miles Tulita to Inuvik – August 2025
By: David H. Scott and Stormy (with me in spirit)
Finishing the paddle/trip has been a tough ordeal. Started it in June I think of 2022 in Hay River on the Great Slave Lake. Extremely high-water year. Tough to find a place to camp on the banks of the Great Slave Lake and on the Mackenzie River. And I had just got out of the hospital on the colon cancer surgery 20 months previously and hadn’t healed as much as I thought I had. Tough ordeal.
Returned July of 2024 with a canoe this time rather than the tandem kayak I had been using for a lot of the paddles because of a condition I ended up with out the colon cancer surgery gone bad, “Short Bowl Syndrome”. A canoe made it much quicker and easier to hit the bank, hoping I could grab the toilet paper fast enough.
I left the confluence of the N. Nahanni after spending a few days with Rod Gunderson at his cabin about 40 miles upriver. We had put the canoe and the gear on and in the boat and took it up with us. When we left, we crossed the river and I loaded up and took off.
I made it about 400 miles to Tuleda. The fires and smoke along and on the river was almost unbearable, I couldn’t see anything and breathing was difficult. I stored the canoe and gear at a great guy’s place called Bennie Doctor, hopped a flight to Yellowknife then over the Ft. Simpson and drove home.
Here we go again.
Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 1/2/3 August/East Lake 6 AM: I had met and guy who was referred to me and he was going to go with me and did leave with me, leaving East Lake to drive to Portland to catch the flight to Vancouver, BC on the 2nd, few hours layover then on to Yellowknife, NWT. Flight to Vancouver delayed a few hours, the flight to Yellowknife cancelled. Caught the next plane on the 3rd, got a room, did what needed to be done and caught the flight to Tuleda where the canoe and gear was stored for the last year.
Monday, Tuesday, 4/5 August/Tuleda: We arrived in Tuleda, I went and got the canoe and gear had Bennie’s brother’s son help with his truck, no one else around. It was a 3-day weekend, and they had all gone to their fish/hunting cabins on the river. Once I secured the gear, cleaned the canoe, organize the gear and prepared to sleep on the bank and leave the next morning. A storm blew in and the wind blew about 30 MPH, 2/3-foot white caps and blew us of the beach. I though of getting 2 rooms, but they were not available, wouldn’t have done it anyway, $400 Canadian each room.
We had to just wait it out, which we managed to do.
Wednesday/Thursday, 6/7 August: We packed the canoe and we both got in at about 7 and fortunately with Clint at 220 and his pack about 60 we weren’t overloaded, but I hadn’t done that good of job consolidating my gear so not a lot of room.
The weather was good. The breeze to our back. We had sun, and when it is out it is hot. We had some rain, but we managed to paddle the 48 miles from Tuleda to Norman Wells arriving at about 7. Clint decided he was going to be able to manage things. He is a hiker/walker not a water guy. We decided it was best for him to abort. Good place to have it take place, several airlines fly to Yellowknife out of Norman Wells, and he had a plane ticket back to Portland in his name.
I set up camp in a swell out of the wind. Another small storm blew in and I put all my bags/gear in the tent and went thru everything, managed to get somewhat organized and ate and went to sleep. The 7th I walked into town, had breakfast, bought some more supplies and went back and once again consolidated, change some things around, got rid of some things and about 5 laid own and needed to. My plan was to get up, hit the river at about 7 and take off for Ft. Good Hope about 120 miles down river.
Friday ,8 August: Another storm blew in late afternoon, white caps/dust from on the banks and brutal. Rained all night long until about 8 AM. I just had to get up, the stiffness and soreness I am experience was getting to be way too much. Had a cup of tea, few breakfast bars and reorganized. Walked into town, had breakfast, got a few more things. Here it is already after 2. I thought about leaving, looks like the sun is out, but if I paddled until 8 or 9 it would throw me off. So right now, the plan is to get the canoe packed except for what I need, hit the water at about 5 AM. It is supposed to be sunny, in the high 50’s, little wind and 2 days. Maybe 2 ½ of paddling I should be down to the ramparts, about 12 miles up river, from Ft. Good Hope. Then that becomes another story as to can I paddle thru the rapid drop and boulders solo with the water being low.
