TRIP BEGAN AT THE SOUTH END OF YELLOWSTONE PARK, 2 MILES FURTHER SOUTH AT FLAGG RANCH
7-26 SAT LEFT BEND, OR AT 5:00PM – Left Bend, OR at 5:00 PM after 2 weeks of preparing the trailer/boat/kayak/gear and issues with the Class B MH Van. It had a cracked head gasket. So had a mechanic fix it, put 2 new heads on, new clutch fan, new radiator, complete tune up with new plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap, etc and it made it the 1st 200 miles on the way to Jackson Hole, WY. That was a pretty good test and indication he did a good job. I stayed the first night east of Juntura, OR.
I have set some parameters for myself. Never let the gas tank get less than ¼ full and try to get it full at ½. I do carry a five gallon spare on the trailer in a tool box on the front. All my trips for years have always been Safety 1st, Comfort 2nd and Fun 3rd. I have made a commitment to practice H. A. L. T. Never get to Hungry, Angry, Lonely or Tired. And don’t get in a hurry. It will take me a good week to get in the “Rhythm of the River”. Especially having to trade off with the Kayak and the Cataraft. I expect the 1,000 miles to take me 5 to 7 weeks. The big unknown is the getting back to where I have the Kayak or the Cat to do that segment of the river.
7-27 SUN – Got up early and started driving before the sun came up. Hot, probably close to 95 degrees. Went South of Boise, ID thru the Birds of Prey area along the Snake just to get an idea of what I was going to be faced with. It is a lot of open, long slow water, but the Kayak will handle it well. Got to within 2 hours of Jackson Hole, WY and spent the night in camp ground along the Snake River. Picked up a hitch hiker who finally plugged some holes for me about the Snake River. The river is known as the Snake River in Wyoming, thru the park. Once it hits Palisades Reservoir and exits the dam it is known as the South Fork of the Snake River. Until it meets up with the Henry’s Fork River in Menan I think it is, then it becomes the Snake River again. There are/is no S. Fork, N. Fork, Middle Fork, just the Snake River. Also the Henry use to be the North Fork of the Salmon until they changed the name to Henry’s Fork. A lot of people must have thought a lot of Henry. Went for a walk and saw a cow moose with her baby on an Island and when I got back to the Van the “Papa†was standing next to my van and wouldn’t let me near it for a good half an hour.
7-28 MONDAY – . Once again got up early and headed to Jackson Hole. Once to town, stopped and arranged the Ice Chest/got some food…ice…drinks…and got the Cat squared away. Stopped at Jackson White Water to find a guy named “Odd Captain Ron†who I have heard is as “odd†as I am. He wasn’t in but I did buy a book he has written about some of his adventures and also got weak and finally bought a Go Pro, actually was less monies than what they wanted at Dick’s in Bend. Also went in to K-Mart and got a car cover for the Cat while it is parked when I am in the Kayak. It made it easy for me to navigate Jackson Hole, because it was in 2010/or 2011 that Ron Bergstrom and I came up here and poured all of that concrete for those curbs/sidewalks on the new bike path thru the Elk Refuge to Moose. I have asked a lot of questions and got few answers. Very few people know, understand very much of the Snake River. The guides obviously know “their section†of the river intimately, but as for “over all†knowledge very few have a clue. I will once I am done. I have got a camp spot at Lizard Creek Camp Ground on the N. end of Jackson Lake and have gotten things as organized as I possibly can. It is raining, but not hard. I anticipate getting up early, driving up to the put in that 2 miles S of the Yellowstone Park Border, get Kayak ready, in the water, tied up and head back to Signal Mountain boat ramp on the S. E corner of Jackson Lake, not far from the Jackson Lake Dam. Park the B in a 3 day vehicle/trailer parking area just up from the Boat Ramp. I don’t see how it can possibly take me more than 3 days to kayak the approximate 8 miles to the Lake, then going to paddle the West side of the lake. They tell me that is the area where they take the “bad bears” they have to relocate and drop them off. I did buy some bear spray, 1st time ever. I don’t know what good it would do, my eye sight has gotten so bad at a distance that the bear would be slapping me up beside the head before I could see him. Last night they had a young grizzly in the camp ground. I also would think, based upon all the traffic on the only road thru the park, that I shouldn’t have any problems getting a ride back to the Kayak, which is about 35/40 miles.
TUES 7-29 – Up early in the camp ground. Completely full from everywhere in the world. Got to the put in close to Flagg Ranch. Got kayak in river and all loaded up. Headed to Signal Mountain boat ramp parking area. 45 minute drive. Had to walk close to 4 miles to get to the junction where I could catch a ride. First ride was a couple and their daughter from Shanghai, China with their daughter Co Co. They spoke no English, I was flabbergasted that they would stop and pick me up. We conversed a little bit. He wasn’t retired. 23 Million People in Shanghai. He said we need to get along because the Chinese have way too many people and way too much money. As for me, I told them my Name was Jackson, Jackson Hole. Now, even though they didn’t speak English, they had this look on their face like who is this guy kidding. Got on the river at noon. Started raining and rained good and steady until I stopped at 4, very wet and tired. Set camp up, had an Oriental Side dish dinner, in tribute to my new found friends from China. Went to bed early to the sound of rain, which really wasn’t all that bad. The only bad thing was the sleeping bag I had was way too small, have no idea where it came from other than I might have bought it in ND for whatever reason. Some of the most beautiful wild flower meadows in the area I have ever seen in my life. Bill Smith’s wife Trish would be proud to see this kind of wild flowers flourishing at the Mill District, even though she has done one hell of a job.
WENS 7-30 – Got up early again, which is something I don’t have any problem doing. Everything was soaking wet, but knew I could dry everything out by the end of the day when I stopped again. Got packed up, got breakfast out of cut up fruit, yogurt, and a mango smoothie and got on the water. Beautiful day, no wind and went along the west side of Jackson Lake, right below the Tetons. A few boats on the water, but saw no other kayakers or canoers. Stopped at about 4, got things out and dried out, got camp set up, had a pasta side dinner, with the rest of the milk I had, went to bed early again to the sound of “Jimmy’s†cousin scolding me for invading his space. Saw no animals except deer, lots of young bucks all over the place.
THURS 7-31 – Once again got up early, well before the sun came up. Got packed up, everything was dry. Already pretty much had things ready to pack in the Kayak except for the tent, cot, sleeping blankets, refused to use the sleeping bag again. Absolutely beautiful morning. Saw no animals. Had breakfast of Raisin Bran/Yogurt/Smoothie on the back side, west side of Elk Island. Unbelievable view.
Got to the boat dock/ramp at approximately 11. Took an hour or so to get things loaded up, separated and the boat ready to put in the water. Stopped at the General Store and got a few things, stopped on the way to Pacific Creek, the put in downstream from the Jackson Dam and did some emailing and texting. Got the boat in. I did have to take the Kayak off and the back Kayak rack off. I had only about 6 inches of water to put the boat in, the 12 volt winch set up worked perfectly. I will have to remember to blow the boat up tight when using that winch set up, it will just make it easier. Headed to Wilson, which is just a few miles out of Jackson Hole, to park the Van at the take out. Stopped at Albertsons and got a few more things. Communicated with Debbie. Contrary to popular believe, I miss her. A lot. Started hitch hiking, shuttle driver picked me up and took me to the N. end of Jackson Hole. Then a deli worker picked me up and got a ride to Grosse Verde turn off. Then a couple picked me up and got me to Moose. Then a young guy who owns the only mobile RV Service in Jackson Hole picked me up and took me right to the boat.
FRI 8-1 – You are not supposed to camp on the river in the park, all the raft trips are a ½ day or day trip event. But, not one to break the rules, tried to sleep in the recliner chair I have on a small island, got cold so got the sleeping pad out, the blankets and got a great night’s sleep to the sound of the river right on the river rocks.
Cooked fried summer sausage, two eggs, whole wheat with strawberry jam and orange juice for breakfast. On the river at sunrise again. Only one group of people passed me at about the time I set off. Got all the way to Wilson by 1:00.
Went to Jackson Hole, got a new large sleeping bag, the one I have is a mummy bag and they don’t work for me. I will take it on the Salmon hike, also got on line and got some things taken care of. Got a veggie sandwich from Safeway, which has to be in the summer time their busiest store. Went back to boat in Wilson, got things squared away and headed to Alpine which is about 40 miles away, the beginning of the Palisades Reservoir. Got there about 4:00 got lucky and found a boat ramp right there at the Alpine Junction. I will have about a mile of slack water to row once I hit the reservoir, but that is ok. Started hitch hiking and got ride immediately from a Lady that was going to Jackson Hole to church, she was Jewish and it was the only synagogue for miles. Nice lady. Retired nurse from Atlanta. Interesting tad bit. The only two known cases of the Ebola Virus that have been determined in the US just got transferred to her unit at the hospital in Atlanta where she worked. She took me all the way to South Park Junction.
Immediately got a ride from a guy who works for the concrete batch plant there in Jackson Hole and he took me right to my boat. He was one of the guys who delivered cement to Ron and I on the work we did there in the Elk Refuge. Goes to show you it is truly a small world. Spent 2 more hours on the river, stopped on a gravel bar, got camp set, had a yogurt, some orange juice a piece of cake and sat on the bank for an hour or so then went to bed.
SAT 8-2 – No problem for this guy getting up at sunrise. There has not been a morning on the river yet that I don’t wake up to the Bald Eagles. A mother is always showing her young how to fly. This morning there were two of them right across the river, chirping and flapping their wings practicing. I have not fished yet, just something I don’t take the time to do, probably should. I will for sure on the Salmon. Taking time this morning to get caught up on this journal, keep things clean, let the sun dry out the tent, send a few emails. Going to be another beautiful day on the Snake River. So far I have this stretch of the river all to myself. It was a good 12 hours down to Alpine. When thru Lunch Box and Meat Loaf rapids with no problems. However, I did have a challenge just before the rapids, got slammed up against a rock wall, and got too close to the hydraulics. I have found out since that I was very lucky to get out of the situation I got into in a split second. This boat does not do well in hydraulics. It was not pretty. Boat almost flipped, the right tube was completely under water, boat full of water. Not good considering I did not have my life jacket on yet for the rapids, had the umbrella on which no longer exists, bent the hell out of the spare oar and it took all I had to get out of that situation. But all in all a lesson and just hurt feelings. Probably won’t get another umbrella, just don’t have any luck with them. As for the spare oar, one would hope it won’t be needed. Hit the reservoir at just when the wind and a storm was brewing. Once to the boat ramp, it didn’t take long for the full force of the storm and wind to hit, just sat in the van and was patient, it blew thru in 30 minutes. Got all the kayak gear out of the boat, kayak and back rack off and loaded the boat. One thing I did not anticipate was if one puts the trailer too far down in the water it “floats†because of all the wood. Got the boat on with the winch which worked perfectly. An hour later the kayak is all loaded, ready to put food in the little white cube ice chest and went and had a dinner at a nice restaurant. Chilled shrimp, house salad, tomato soup and ground chuck steak with mashed potatoes and gravy. Once back to the van, spent some time on the computer and went to bed. My computer is not working with the IPhone, won’t tether. Got woke up couple hours later, group of guides out of Jackson Hole showed up in the dark down at the boat ramp,, having a bachelor’s party and headed to the Saturday night, once a week in Alpine strip club. By the time they got back, they made no noise, barely heard them. Ready to attack the Palisades Reservoir. Probably will take me until noon to get on the water. (Exactly 11:00)
SUN 8-3 – Up at the break of dawn, up to the store to get ice and pack the cooler for the Kayak, I expect to be out on the lake tonight. Got it in the kayak and head to Palisades Dam. Got to the dam and found out that in order to get to the ramp that is just on the other side of the dam, with the road being locked across the damn, one has to drive close to 6 miles. It isn’t the 6 miles, it is the fact that everyone is going in the direction to put in, not take out this time of the morning. That is a long, long walk first thing on a section of the trip to have to walk, in order to get to the highway for a ride. So I opted to go back 4 miles to another public ramp. Got parked, got on the road and got a ride from a guy and his wife and two kids. Nice people. Gave me a ride right to the kayak. They were on their way to spend some time watching exactly the place where I go into trouble yesterday. I guess because the water has dropped so suddenly, a lot of people are getting into trouble where I did. I was very lucky. It became very close there to the trip being over. Got on the water about 11 and of course being a Sunday there are a ton of people on the lake water skiing and boating. I stuck to the far West side and it was ok. I got to the van about 4.
So no staying overnight. All the preparing the kayak was for practice I guess. I still am not sure of my capabilities and limitations. What is amazing is just how good of shape I am in to be able to paddle/row/carry this kayak and make this work. My thumbs and elbow don’t hurt any more I am just working it out. I told myself they will either work or fall off because I am not going to let it stop me. I could have taken two bottles of water, some bars, the chair and the umbrella. The umbrella worked well today and saved my bacon. It was very hot. The glare off of the water is enough as it is.
At the boat ramp took my time got everything squared away and the boat ready for the trip/section down to Idaho Falls. I need to do some investigating as to where I should park/and switch to the kayak. I know there is some slack/slow/no channel water. I am having some issue with the van/motor. Hope to find somebody first thing in the morning. Think it is something simple, motor is shaking a little bit but running good. Also thought I would have to find an AT&T store but I think the phone is working, will know here shortly. Will just stay here at the boat ramp, lots of room, not a lot of traffic on the road and everybody has gone home for the night, I am the only one here. Hopefully after the Bachelor party boys last night, I can get a good night sleep without being interrupted. Got interrupted. The camp host from up above at the Blow Out camp ground, is also in charge of making sure no one camps down at the boat dock. Can’t figure out how he knew I was planning on spending the night there but since I was the only one there, he wasn’t too stupid. I explained the van issue and he called Doug, a guy he knew at the Dam Store about 10 miles down the road, the way I needed to go. We made arrangements that I would be at his place at 8 in the morning, and based upon what I told him it was acting like, he thought he wouldn’t have a problem figuring it out. I went up and got a camp spot to keep peace in the family. My Golden Age Passport card has come in handy now several times, space was only $6 bucks and a good one.
Got out to brush my teeth after having pasta with tuna fish and a big Bull Moose came out of the bushes and scared the heck out of me. It was dark and I startled him.
MON 8-4 – At Doug’s at 7:30, got the cover out and low and be hold the “distributor†was loose, evidently Bill, the guy who did all the work on the Van forgot to tighten it. Doug came out and we timed it, he tightened it up and for $50 bucks my “issue†was solved. Great guy, ex school teacher. Mentioned he was having trouble at 58 trying to figure out what he wanted to be or wanted to do, so there is at least one other guy out there besides me that is still looking. I went back up to the boat ramp below the dam and got the Cataraft in the water, everything ready to go, tied it up good, got the kayak back on the trailer and off I went to Idaho Falls. The winch set up is working perfectly, without it I couldn’t get that “cat†off or back on. I have to take the kayak off and the back kayak rack off, but it works great, and not that much more work. Before I hit the dam, went up to the little store and got a dozen eggs, and before putting the boat in cooked another good breakfast, scrambled eggs, sausage, whole wheat with the raspberry jam, banana and orange juice.
Once to Idaho Falls I went to a white water raft shop I know of and the guy was clueless. It was after 1:00 and was getting worried I was not going to get back to the boat today. I headed to Menan where the Henry’s Fork converges with the South Fork of the Snake and once off of the 15 Freeway I crossed the Snake. Off to the right was a public boat dock and a little camp ground. I went another 5 miles to Menan and got gas and ran into a local boy who grew up on this part of the river. He said I would have no problem getting to that boat ramp in my Cataraft. There might be 4 miles or so I had to row if the wind was blowing and that might be the case depending on what time of the last afternoon I get there tomorrow. I might spend one more night and hit it in the early AM, we will see how it all works out.
At the boat dock, paid the $3 day fee (Golden came in again) and started to walk out to the road and hitch hike back to the boat, it is now pushing 2:30. At that moment a truck pulling a drift boat trailer pulls in followed by a van I had seen up at the base of the dam early this morning while I was putting the boat in. It was the shuttle people. After talking to them and them saying that they saw me this morning, they offered to take me all the way back to my Cat for $20. Couldn’t believe it, I never did get a chance to hitch hike. Living right I guess. On the way found out they own one of the two shuttle companies in the Swan Valley. They also own a Maverick gas station/C Store with a Subway Sandwich franchise in it. Knew exactly where it was, confirmed that when we stopped by there and we all got Subway Sandwiches. He had his wife and 3 kids with him. There was also a young boy with them, probably related. One of the few questions I guess I didn’t ask. His family owns 16,000 acres there in the Valley and has 5,500 head of cattle. They also raise crops, wheat mostly I think. They were going to start fall harvest today, but it was raining, that is why he was helping out on the shuttle runs. He is going to BYU this fall, in 3 weeks to study and get a degree to be a better farmer. I found that refreshing. No ear rings, no tattoos, just a good all-around American Boy. I expound up on all of this, because this trip along with the mission of going from the S. Yellowstone Park Border to the Columbia, a good part of the trip is the hitch hiking.
Dwell on this. I drive 800 miles to get there. I have to drive that same 800 miles or more back. Then I have to hitch hike that entire 800 miles again to get back to my boat/kayak. Then I float the river that 800 miles or more being river miles. So this isn’t just “floating a river a 1,000 milesâ€. It is a 4,000 mile endeavor. No, I never put that in perspective when I planned this. If I would have, might not have taken it on. Because make no mistake about it, being in Idaho Falls today was no “funâ€. Everyone keeps telling me to have fun. I haven’t quite figured out yet what is fun about this. Now, when I get on the water, all the stress, the anxiety, having no idea what is around the next bend, the miles, the losing the fold up table (I think it fell out the back of the boat going down the road) , Cam’s life vest he has had for 20 years blowing out of the boat, all the money spent on the van and the trailer getting that ready and of course every single day beating the hell out of my legs getting in and out of the boat, my butt aches from sitting in the kayak for so long and the fact my eye sight has changed drastically, all of the “issues and challenges†just fade away.
Had a good hot cup of tea. It rained all afternoon and I was chilled. I didn’t get wet I have good rain gear. No dinner, to tired and not hungry. It is raining again, but the tent is rain proof, it is the best one so far I have ever had for me. Do wish it was about 1 or 2 feet taller, I can’t stand up in it, but goes up quick and is comfortable.
Considering this is the 7th day on the water/river and it is the 10th day since leaving Bend, so far so good.
TUES 8-5 – Up, getting things broke down which is obviously all wet/damp. Won’t take long for thing to dry out, whenever that is. I don’t like things being wrapped up for too long wet, but as long as it stays raining and doesn’t get hot they won’t mildew and smell. On the water about 8, not quite as early as usual. Beautiful part of the river, somewhat of a deep canyon for 20 miles or so. Bald Eagles are prolific. Lots of Moose. Started raining about noon and rained pretty much the rest of the way all the way to Robertson Road boat ramp where I had the van. Got there about 7:30 had to have gone about 60 miles or so one would think. Hard to tell by river miles. Once there, got a break in the rain, got the kayak/rack off, got the boat loaded up. Once again, that 12 volt winch is making it possible for me to get the boat on and off. Will have to take a video of it once I can figure out the Go Pro. I am finding out that the I Phone just about does as good of job with pictures and videos as anything. The camera, which is a FUGI that came found on the bank of the Deschutes I think it was, doesn’t do all that well. Pics are bad but the video is terrible. Might be me not knowing exactly how to use it best. Not going to take it with me anymore.
Once squared away, talked to Brandon in ND on the 72 units. Got some emailing done. Had a bowl of Oyster Soup/crackers and cold milk and relaxed then went to sleep. Rained pretty much off and on all night.
WENS 8-6 – Got with it about 8. Stayed here at the boat ramp, no issues this time with staying overnight. Cleaned up things, got all my dirty clothes ready to wash, squared things away on the boat and headed to Great Falls. Once to Great Falls immediately found a Laundromat and an Albertsons right next door. Washed and dried and replenished groceries.
Took some pictures/video of the falls in town and a power plant which is the reason behind having to go around this section of the river. The further I go south the more it looks like it was going to quit raining. Not so. Went to Shelly, which is about 9 miles south of Great Falls and found a boat ramp at a County Park just out of town. Talked to a guy who sent me to Shane Wootan, who owns an AG Manufacturing plant, think they make parts for Harvest Machines for potatoes, etc. But more importantly he is also the US Rep for Loop Fly Fishing products/equipment/clothing. Imagine that? Great guy and very helpful. Good one to put in the back of my mind. I need to get him on the Deschutes with Cameron as soon as possible, maybe this fall for the Steelhead hopefully. I am invited him on the Salmon, but he said he would probably be divorced if he did. He grew up around Glen’s Ferry and his father still owns a 4,000 acre ranch there. He got on Google Earth with me and pointed some things out. I am going to put the Kayak in here in the morning and should be able to go all the way down to American Falls Dam. Couple potential challenges but I am confident I can navigate them safely and successfully. After that I will take it a section at a time, and it is going to be a Logistical challenge to say the least until I get further on down the river in the area of Glen’s Ferry. After that it is all kayak I believe until I get to Hell’s Canyon.
Back to the boat ramp, can spend the night here, won’t get the kayak loaded up until early AM, get to the boat ramp at the American Falls Dam and start hitch hiking again back and hope I do as well as in the last 5 sections.
It is raining like crazy but probably will pass fairly quickly.
