#6 JOURNAL – JULY 22nd TO 28th
July 22, Saturday “Day 30 on Water “I knew I couldn’t make it to Tanana so decided to stop about 15 miles upriver then get up early as usual and get there about 10 and try to be done by 3. The Norway boys caught up with me, they stop much later and start much later. We paddled alongside each other for a while.
As I was trying to find a camp when a boat with 2 guys and 2 young adults stopped and we chatted for a while. Turned out 1 of the guys had been up there for about 40 years, a retired surgical nurse there at the hospital in Tanana. Imagine that. A bit of a character to say the least. They said they were on there way down river to get a king salmon for dinner and would I like to have dinner and spend the night. I jumped at the chance since I hadn’t had much to eat for days. It took me another hour to get to their place.
I unloaded my bed, pad and a few things and laid my pad out, got the umbrella out for shade and lay down and took a nap to wait for their return. Hour or so later I went to the creek and rinsed and filled my water bottles with very cold water, the best I have had in a long time. About that time, they returned.
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The one guy who has been around for 40 years is Mike McCoon. One of those guys who has been every where and done a lot. Pilot, author, is one of the real life guys on the Discovery show on the Yukon. We had a great dinner, salmon, fried potatoes and a good salad. It really helped.
The other guy was from New Orleans. His family lives in Homer, AK and was there helping Mike, doing the cooking. The two young kids were from Sweden, Mike had met them somewhere and Mike was giving them an opportunity to experience some Yukon style living.
I slept in the guest house, a tent they had set up just for that. Stormy once again had fun chasing squirrels and everyone just takes to her.
July 23, Sunday “Day 31 on Water “I was up at 5 and packed by 6, ready to go. Mike was up, we exchanged contact information, he gave me a copy of the 2 books he had published and we were on our way. I anticipated getting to Tanana by 11. We got there at 11:30 with the wind howling as we came around the bend. I was here when Dad, Mike and I put in at Nenana, came down the Tanana River ands went down to Ruby and back in his flat bottom boat.
We hit the beach and promptly found out it was Sunday and everything was closed and would not open until 10 tomorrow morning. We were compelled to take a break. The wind was blowing and a storm was coming. We went down close to the airport where the Village has a little campground. It was perfect. Behind trees out of the wind, it is a 15 minute walk to town right on the bank so easy to get unloaded and get set up.
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Once set up I made something to eat. Then Stormy and I walked into town to use the payphone to at least get that accomplished. The phone didn’t work. The liquor store was open because the barge had arrived and was receiving inventory. Jeff who runs the store insisted I use his cell phone.
I called Debbie, all 3 girls and Cam, with Cam the only one answering. We went back to camp. Laid down and I read awhile. Then it started raining and we fell asleep.
July 24, Monday “Day 32 on Water “There was no hurry this morning but we were still up by 6. I tidied things up, made some oatmeal and we went for a walk. I think the Library opens at 9 will head there. It looks and feels like the storm is going to pass. We will accomplish things, organize, relax and head down river in the morning.
The library at the school didn’t open until 5. We went to the store and waited for it to open at 10. I got enough change to wash 2 loads, she said it would take $30. I wondered if I was buying the place or washing just 2 loads. The dirty clothes and my blanket I use and Stormy’s bed. It actually took $35.
To keep this simple we washed and dried, the place had great showers, another $2, bought supplies, enough water and we were done by 2. By 3 everything was packed up and ready for the kayak. I rested for an hour, went back to the store and ate something out of the microwave, then went to the library.
We were back at the tent by 6, I read and was asleep by 9.
July 25, Tuesday- Day 33 on Water “Nothing wrong with a routine if it is a good one. Down the river at 6:30. Overcast but no wind. What a break considering the amount of wind in the last 2 days. A good day. At 2 we stopped, got set up, went for a walk, snacked, built a fire, updated the journal and had mashed potatoes and gravy.
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There is a hatch of small flies going on. They get in everything, they don’t bite but a huge nuisance. I am wearing a mosquito’s net for the 2nd time.
Less than 700 miles to go.
July 26, Wednesday – Day 34 on Water “We got a good night’s sleep despite these little pesky flies. Up at 5, packed and on the river at 5:45.
1st thing in the morning I saw a very large Grizzly bear walking up river on the N. side, which is the side of the river/channel that I have been paddling along. He was ahead of me so there is no way he could see me coming. He started to run and he just kept running and running until I almost couldn’t see him. Then he turned into the river and started to swim across the channel. His head was so big it was easy to watch him swim across the river. But once he got to the Island bank, he started to swim upriver along the Island. I for the life of me couldn’t figure out what he was doing. He kept coming towards me and I started to paddle over to the bank he had swum from. Before long I decided to get the bear spray out and the air horn because he kept coming my way. There was no way I was going to be able to out paddle him he was such a strong swimmer. If he decided to chase me down river, he was going to catch me.
What the hell was this bear doing I thought. As he came long across from me directly, he turned and ambled up the bank, shook the water off and walked into the tree line. I don’t think he ever saw me. I also think he was running and swimming as long as he could to get away from the small flies that were especially bad this particular morning.
It was overcast then started a slight drizzle. I stopped and put Stormy’s cover on and my skirt. Stayed pretty much the same all day. The 3rd barge I have seen came up river about 1.
I saw a black bear on our side of the river walking up river. I could get a picture and some video finally. Stormy was sleeping and I did not disturb her.
Soon thereafter we stopped for a break. The mosquitos were the worst so far. A cloud of them followed us for some time.
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At 4 after 10 hours of paddling I was tired. My thumbs are bothering me considerably. I decided starting today we would hug the right/North bank. As I was about to pull in and set up another Black Bear came out of the brush. Not enough time to get a picture he was a little behind us. Stormy saw him and at 1st wasn’t real sure what she was seeing. Then he grunted and turned to go back in the brush. I thought Stormy was going to jump out of the boat. It didn’t take her long to settle down.
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Down a ways I picked a small gravel bar surrounded by water.
As I was setting up we saw the bear come back out and head up river. A good little shower came thru, once again I was ready.
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This is a very organized and well laid out Bible Camp. The only thing like it on the entire Yukon that I saw.
July 27, Thursday “Day 35 on Water “Our next way station to stop at is Galena, I would expect to be there on Fri afternoon or Saturday morning, once again trying to hit in so I don’t have to spend any more time in town than necessary. After my lesson in Tanana, with everything being closed on Sundays and getting there late Saturday afternoon, I don’t want that to happen again, although that down time was spent productively and with the way the weather was, it worked out well.
The little flies seem to be dissipating. I don’t remember if I mentioned I had bought Stormy some insect repellant when I got her Health Certificate from the Vet in Bellingham and finally remember and got it on her. It has made a huge difference. The bank keeps going by.
I am beginning to realize that my doubts about this Feathercraft, the tandem K-2 being the right kayak for this part of the trip remaining is the right choice. It is heavy when it is loaded. It doesn’t do well against the wind let alone a good stiff breeze. I am working twice, sometimes three times has hard as I have to. That is one of the main reasons my thumbs are bother me. I need a hard shell, sleek, light weight, no dog, no dog food, limited supplies and camping gear and paddle right on thru the remaining miles that are left.
Once we get past Galena a couple of hundred miles, it opens up, no hills, no mountains and no trees. Therefore, no wind breaks. Going to be tough going. It already has been.
Since I made the decision to stay on the right bank, N side of the river channel I am on, I have to paddle across at the end of the day to get on the island. It is tough, because normally after 2 a good stiff breeze of wind is blowing up river and it can be a job at the end of the day. Very stressful and trying. But once we are there we are there. Once again, I don’t want to camp on the main shore line because of the amount of bears and bear tracks I have seen all the time. Every time I see a cow moose and her calf tracks, there are bear tracks and wolf tracks. Always.Now, once again, the thought process that the bears aren’t on the islands is bullshit. I have seen just as many bears, bear tracks on the islands as I have on the main shore.
The water is also dropping daily. So that means sometimes a good walk to get up off of the sand bar, back against the bushes or the trees. If you set up on a sand bar and the wind comes up, you can have your tent full of sand in about 30 seconds. So I always make the trek, no matter how far it is. It takes 5 trips up to set up and 5 trips back in the morning to pack the Kayak. I look at it as loosing up at the end of the day and in the morning as my exercise and getting the stiffness out of my muscles and joints. Stormy likes it because she gets to run. She is always glad to get out of the kayak at the end of the day, but she sure is good when she is in it. She has not once time made a fuss, no matter how long we are in the kayak.
July 28, Friday “Day 36 on Water “We still are having very good weather. It is only a matter of time and the weather has to change.
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We are getting more wind and with that comes more work. I am constantly looking at the weight between Stormy and myself, all the gear, etc and at times I wonder if this Feathercraft is the right kayak to be doing this sort of trip. It works great when there is current. Even when there is current with a brisk breeze or a good wind coming up river, it does fine. I have worked hard at eliminating gear. I have mailed a box back to Cam’s, given the cot and a good deal of stuff away.
But once you lose the current, with a brisk breeze and a good stiff wind coming up river, you are working very hard to do 1 to 2 miles per hour. 8 hours and you haven’t gone very far and you are extremely tired. You get fooled and complacent when there is a good current, favorable weather and no wind. 50 miles a day is easy. Then I am not even dwelling on the amount of energy at the end of the day it takes to cross the channel to get to the Island to camp. Lake Baikal in Russian will be this way. 10 hr day, 20 miles for lake paddling. 1,200 miles is 60 days. No other way to plan it.
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I hope to get to Galena today, late this afternoon. The only thing that will prevent that is I have to stop because of the wind. By getting there on a Friday afternoon, it means I can resupply, internet up and get back on the water before the day is over.
We arrived in Galena about 5:00 after the wind coming up to our backs. I sailed very hard and fast for about 20 miles. Then I had to traverse across the river to be able to hit Galena without paddling on the side of the river the wind was hitting. I would have never gone anywhere and had to stop and wait the wind out.
Once I got across, the wind carried us right to the village. It was windy and raining. Once again I had to set up in the wind and rain. We set the tent up on the front lawn of the Alaska Fish and Game whose office was right on the bank of the river where I had hit the bank.
Once the tent was set up, I left Stormy in the tent and walked up to the grocery store. It was about closing time for them, so I got something hot to eat out of the Microwave and said I would be back at 10 in the morning to stock up.
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